A Tuesday

Nov 5, 2013

My first visit to Salt Spring was back in 2003 or so, on a day trip from Vancouver with a girlfriend. I remember walking onto the Long Harbour ferry and hitching into Ganges and being so impressed that someone picked us up right away! That was different than the city.

There seemed to be a lot of people dressed like hippies, and Ganges had lots of art galleries. We walked around the Ganges Marina and Centennial Park and the downtown area. And then we rushed back. We just didn't have a clue. 

So silly. I didn't know then that a day trip does not do the place justice. 

Since moving here, I now tell many of my friends that day trips are not really a possibility. (OK they are - I mean, you could fly in and out, for instance. Or come on the earliest ferries in the morning and leave on the latest at night, but really how much will you be able to see? And you'll never get the island feel because you will be rushing around the whole time and you will miss one of the main beauties of this place - the relaxed mood and slower speed from the urban hustle. But I digress.)

Then in 2010 I took a sailing trip from Ladysmith around the Gulf Island with 6 other women. We sailed into Ganges Harbour one gorgeous sunny July morning, just in time for the famous Salt Spring Saturday Market. 

What a place! The market! Oh my goodness! So colourful and charming. So much to see and so many people to talk to. And such a diversity of crafts and food. A woman spinning wool, farmers' market stalls full of organic produce, the fruitcicles, the handmade clothing and purses and pottery and jewelry, the French bakery, the candy and cheese makers. And so much whimsical art - birdhouses made from driftwood, little felted elves and monsters, beautiful giant metal insects. I felt right at home. People were so friendly, often inquiring if I was a visitor or an islander. They seemed genuinely interested in my reply. Gosh, it was so much fun.

We all headed out to purchase goodies, and came back together later, all returning with wine, cheese, chocolate and bread. We would be having a feast back on the boat. And in the park's gazebo, cross-dressed teenagers were performing Cirano deBurgerac. It was fabulous and I could hardly tear myself away. (I spent 15 years of my life as a professional actor, so this was quite exciting.) Alas, the tides were calling. We had to leave. I vowed to return.

I did not make it back until Spring 2011. I decided to come over for my birthday that year, and since I knew one person on the island, I called her and asked for suggestions on where to stay. She suggested the Birdsong Bed and Breakfast, which turned out to be absolutely perfect. My friend from Seattle and I stayed in their adorable cabin, and their dog Fred came knocking on our door to come in for a visit. 
We had fabulous breakfasts cooked by Edward, presided over by Bill and were regaled with the most excellent stories of their lives. It's a beautiful little piece of heaven, along Rourke Road with a view of the water,  a sheep farm next door and birds everywhere. Bucolic and quiet and just what the doctor ordered. We only stayed for the weekend but I was hooked! I made plans to come back sooner than later. We went to the market again, and down to Salt Spring Cheese and even walked a beach or two, but again the time was just too short. I had to come back.

I returned again on my own that summer, even walking to town one day. It was a hot summer's day and a woman driving by stopped and offered me a lift! I was impressed, to say the least - because I did not have my thumb out. It was just a hot day. I continued walking, and met some Yaks along my way. Interesting place, I thought. I believe I knew I was falling deeply in love with Salt Spring right then and there.